Wednesday, April 30, 2014

My Robson

I was very diligent last week, and worked on my Robson coat for a couple of hours every day.   On Friday I managed to finish it up.  It ended up being a lot more work than I'd expected, but I'm really happy with the end result, so it was worth it!  And really, none of the tasks were especially difficult.  It's just a lot of length and weight to shift around toward the end.  I really felt like I'd gotten a workout on Friday after I finished up!

I started my Robson journey with a tissue-fitting of the pattern:


Based on that tissue-fitting, I made the following adjustments to a size 6, which is where I fall in Sewaholic Patterns:

1.  Removed 1/2" from the length of the sleeves at the bottom.
2.  Removed 2" from the coat length at the bottom, as the belt loops and waist fell in the right place for me. (I am 5'4", and neither long- nor short-waisted.)
3.  Did a 1/2" sway back adjustment to the back piece.

It's interesting to note that I didn't have to do broad back or forward shoulder adjustments as I often do.

To make this coat I used this lovely organic cotton twill.  I wouldn't hesitate to use this fabric again.  After the pre-wash, it almost didn't need ironing!  It comes in so many beautiful colors and is quite economical.  I bought 5 yards but only used 4 yards for my coat, so I have enough left over for a skirt!

I toyed with the idea of making my own bias tape, but fell in love with an orange tape I saw at JoAnn's.  I really love orange and blue together - they're so complementary!  Marrie also made a Robson (out of this same fabric!) recently, and she very kindly posted a tutorial on how to line the sleeves.   It sounded like a good idea, so I picked up some bright orange lining to match my tape and did the same:


I hadn't been able to find buttons I liked before I left for Toronto, so I bought some there, with Andrea's help.  I really love these buttons!


For my coat, I used 7/8" buttons for the back flap and front, but 3/4" buttons on the epaulettes and sleeve tabs.  I think it looks a little more in scale with the tabs.



I made keyhole buttonholes throughout.  I thought about not cutting open the holes on the epaulettes and sleeve tabs, but then decided to go ahead and do it, since it will be much easier to iron the coat in the future if they can be opened.  I stabilized all the buttonholes with Fray Check before cutting them open with my chisel.

Not sure why this photo is so washed out!

These colors are true!


Here's the whole thing, front and back.



I think it's interesting that on the hanger, it looks like the back is much shorter than the front (well, it actually is!) but on my body, my sway back takes care of that and the hem line is even!

Believe it or not, I didn't try this on after finishing until yesterday!  I had ironed it so nicely that I didn't want to mess it up until I'd taken these photos.  The coat is quite heavy and not the easiest thing in the world to iron!  And I ended up being under the weather all weekend with sinus/allergy stuff - again.  And I still was when I took these pictures yesterday, so you just get a quick selfie in the mirror, with my sinus-headache face.  But I'm smiling because my coat is awesome and fits well!


Like everybody says, the pocket openings are quite small.  I have a hard time getting my large hands in there.

I'm hoping to get some better pics of this coat in action in NYC next weekend, along with my sew-along partner Shar!  I hope we don't get too caught up in gabbing away and forget to take pictures of our coats!

75 comments:

  1. Looks fab. I've had my pattern for a while now but haven't got round to making it, you've reminded me that I really need this in my wardrobe. Hope you feel better soon

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  2. This is lovely Gail. The blue and orange look great together. I hope you have fun wearing it next weekend.

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    1. Thanks, Sam! It's silly - I could be wearing it now, but I'm "saving" it for my trip!

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  3. OMG - this is GORGEOUS! I don't even like this pattern and I intend to steal your coat. The orange and blue are perfect. The buttons are excellent. Inspired to choose white buttons.

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    1. Hahaha, thank you! I went with white buttons because I was sure I had a vintage Vera scarf in cobalt, orange and white. Turns out I do not! Will have to find one!

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  4. Your coat looks so gorgeous. I've got the pattern, the fabric (washed), great buttons and matching binding. The only thing lacking has been motivation! After seeing your effort I think I'll have to get started, although I think I'll now have to choose a contrasting bias binding to go with the maroon drill I have!

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    1. Thanks, Kim! I will admit this was kind of a slog-fest :-) So. Many. Steps! There were times I had to really make myself work on it, but I'm so glad it's done and I love it!

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  5. Your coat is gorgeous!! I love the blue and orange together, and the fit looks perfect. I hope you feel better soon!

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  6. Beautiful coat! And I love the orange binding.

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  7. How absolutely stunning and what amazing sewing. I could only dream of being that skilled!

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  8. "Sinus-headache face" Yes. Yes I know that face! Get better :)

    Beautiful coat! It's so pretty! And blue!!! (Blue is my favorite color) and has so much awesome binding!!!!!

    I want to make a spring jacket; black with b/w polka-dot bias tape finished seams. Must. Get. In. Gear.

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    1. Don't you hate it? I feel like my head and face are 10x bigger than they actually are!

      Thank you! Blue is not actually my favorite color, but lately I want All The Things to be blue, LOL! I was second-guessing my color choice when my fabric came - I had narrowed it down to this blue and hot pink. I'm really glad I stuck with the blue because it's something a little different than what I usually do, and it's such a great springtime color!

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  9. What a beautiful, designer quality coat!

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  10. Beautiful! Thanks for the tip about the pocket opening. I made the coat and didn't have an issue with the pocket opening, but then, my hands are very thin. When I post my coat, and sadly it will have to wait a while, I'll be sure to pass along the info.

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    1. Thank you! Yes, my hands are quite large for a lady :-) A lot of people who have made this coat have mentioned the small pocket openings, so I knew it going in. I just didn't want to take the time and effort to change it!

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  11. Oh Gail, this is truly beautiful. The insides are just something else !! I'm so jealous that you get to meet up with Shar on the weekend. Have a great time!!

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    1. Thank you! Yes, I am super excited to meet Shar and also Ginger and Evelyn! It is going to be a great time!

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  12. Can I steal it, Gail?? Ok, after NYC ;o) it's so gorgeous! I love the details and well everything about it. Have fun in NYC!

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    1. Hehehe - I think not! But thank you!

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  13. wow, your coat is so pretty! I love the light buttons and the orange lining and binding adds such a nice touch. It almost makes me want to make a coat for myself ;)

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    1. Thank you, Inge! I love making coats - they can be challenging, but it's such a great feeling knowing you made it yourself!

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  14. AHHHH! It's gorgeous Gail. Absolutely gorgeous, and like everything you make, superb! Wow. Can't wait to see it modeled with NYC as a backdrop!

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    1. Thanks, Mela! Now: all I have to do is make sure we get some pictures!

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  15. Wow! Excellent coat - tailoring, colors, buttons, and all. (And you know, a blue-and-white or orange-and-white Vera would be splendid if you can't find one in blue, white, and orange).
    -- stashdragon

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    1. Thanks, Gretchen! I do have a couple of blue Veras - one in particular looks fantastic with this coat. But today I found an orange and blue one on Ebay, so it's on its way to me!

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    2. Cosmic convergence!
      -- stashdragon

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  16. Can I say, I love your coat? I love the color you chose and with orange bias tape is amazing! :)

    The Robson coat is on my to make list, after a few mods. I won't be able to start this until June, unfortunately. Funny thin gis my sister bought me the Robson pattern even though I gave away the pattern because it wasn't my style. I don't like double breasted coats. It's meant to be?

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    1. Thank you!

      Hahaha - I guess it is meant to be! I have always wanted a trench coat - but not in the drab colors sold in the stores! So I bought this pattern as soon as it was released. Can't believe it's taken me this long to make it!

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  17. Be-U-tiful! I really love those colors and the stitching looks superb. I'm so jealous of your NY trip! Are you doing the Workroom Social festivities??

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    1. Thank you, ma'am! I'm copying you by going to NYC ;-) And yes, I am going to the Workroom Social party! Can't wait to see who I meet there!

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  18. Gail!!!!! This is GORGEOUS!!!!! Another winner of a project for you! Can't wait to see this in person!

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    1. Thanks, Ginger! Hope it doesn't warm up TOO much! (Sort of can't believe I'm even saying that, after the winter we've had!)

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  19. You said it yourself "my coat is awesome and fits well!" and I wholeheartedly agree. I love the colors, what a great idea to add that orange lining and bias tape. Great job!

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    1. Thank you so much! I originally though to make my own tape out of a red, white and blue print, but I'm really glad I found this orange - it's so cheerful! (And so much less work!)

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  20. Coat is Fabulous - love the orange. BTW, Coco Chanel always had buttons and buttonholes that actually worked . . . a sign of couture. Welcome to my city, New York, this week. Do you know about Hyman Hendler?

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    1. Thank you! Well, now I feel even fancier, LOL! And I did not know about Hyman Hendler, but now I do thanks to a little google search! Thanks for the recommendation!

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  21. Your coat turned out so great! The orange and blue are perfect together, and it fits you wonderfully! Hope you feel better soon!

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    1. Thanks, Marrie! And thanks again for all your great tips!

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  22. Wow! Just awesome all over. I love the blue on you, and the orange detailing is perfect and simply launches it into the style stratosphere. Nice work! And lovely fit too.

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    1. Thank you! I certainly couldn't have purchased an orange and blue trenchcoat!

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  23. Oh my goodness! This coat is gorgeous! I love the colours you've picked, and the fit is amazing.

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  24. Ooh I love the pop of orange on the inside!

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    1. Thanks, Sabs! Me too - it's sort of a pity that it's going to be hidden most of the time!

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  25. this is absolutely gorgeous! i love the blue and orange. this coat looks like so much work, but it turned out beautifully. i'm sure you'll wear it for years to come!

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    1. Thanks, Lisa! I do hope to wear it for a long, long time!

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  26. The is a beautifully made coat! All those detail pics are so great - the color combos really work together! Well done!!! :)

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  27. Lovely all around. All your hard work truly paid off because this coat looks great and the fit also looks spot on. Plus it's a classic! Super nice details of contrasting bias tape and the buttons. Looking forward to seeing pictures of you and Shar in your respective coats.

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    1. Thanks you! I can't wait to get together with her!

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  28. Whoa, amazing! This is superb Gail :) I can't believe you successfully did tissue fitting, haha! I don't think I'd have the confidence to go through with that. Well it paid off cos it's smashing :D

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    1. Thanks, Jo! I find tissue-fitting to be easier than muslin-making, for the most part! Never thought I'd say that! I think it's worth a try. Sometimes I do have to make a muslin to double-check after the tissue-fit (like with the Nicola dress) but overall I'd say it's a pretty successful technique.

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  29. So very awesome! I love the colour combination, so fresh and chic. Are you a brooch lady? I could see a gorgeous vintage brooch on one of those lapels (I love brooches on coats!). Have a wonderful time in NYC, make sure you go to Purl soho :)

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    1. Thank you! I am a brooch lady, but moreso in the winter, for some reason! But I have a few vintage scarves that I love with this coat :-) I'd say I'm more of a scarf lady than a brooch lady!

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  30. So very, very behind on my blog reading. Gail, this is amazing! The colour is fantastic on you and I LOVE the orange! Inspired choice, Friend! This pattern is sitting on my bookshelf and I'll get to it one of these days. The endless amounts of piping intimidates me though. It's not hard to add but it will take sooooo much time!

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    1. Well thank you so much! Seriously: binding foot! I don't think I would have made it this far without it!

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  31. Looks good, and I love the color!

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  32. Great job. Perhaps if I start on one now, it'll be done by fall. :)

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    1. Thank you, Kate! That would be the way to do it - no pressure to finish quickly!

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  33. Your Robson jacket is lovely Gail. I love the color and drape of this cotton twill fabric you choose. It's perfect for a dreary Chicago spring. :) Hope your allergies get better soon.

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  34. Thank you, Liz! I do like to brighten things up with a cheerful coat!

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  35. Your coat looks amazing Gail!!! And I am really surprised that you didn't have to do as many adjustment as you usually do in shirt patterns (that gives me hope that it might be the same if I ever try to make a coat). I love your blue and orange color combination as well! Especially that the sleeve lining is totally in orange.

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    1. Thanks, Ela! I was surprised too! But glad about that! It really wasn't too difficult, from a fitting standpoint!

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  36. My gosh. What a pretty blue. It's so smart with the orange piping.

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    1. Thanks, Stef! I love it, although I do wish the orange showed on the right side too!

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  37. Fantastic job!! I am in love with your coat! The colors are the best and it looks just beautiful on you. All your work was worth it !!

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